Water and wine in equal measure
And, just as alcohol was essential in the evening, we drank water by the litre through the day, regularly filling up at the well marked fuentes.
Only once did I join some local workmen in a coffee liqueur with their early morning café con leche. They convinced me it would give me more strength “mas fuerte” for the day so I slugged back “El elfilador” and needed more stops today than I’d ever needed before!
The biggest mistake we made was underestimating how much water we’d need for the long hot slog over the mesata from Calzadilla to Reliegos. It was just over 18km from Calzadilla but we had already walked 13km from Sahagún and the sun was high in the sky when we set out. The heat was vicious and there was no shade either so I changed into long sleeves. And the blister on my little toe was starting to make itself felt.
Our water bottles were dry before we had even reached half way so the next 10km were really hard going and on arriving in Reliegos we were desperate for fluids. We walked straight to the bar and when the barmaid saw our red sweaty faces she immediately filled huge glasses with ice, water and refrescos. So that’s what dehydration and heat exhaustion feels like. It was a silly mistake to make.
But what a great evening we had with Patrick and Andreas, two men we teamed up with at the albergue. The food in the bar was delicious, the company first class and the wine? Oh, that helped with the hydration too.